Andrea Doria held a notable reputation in his day, having spearheaded the liberation of the Genoese republic from French control back in 1528. The impressive Palazzo del Principe served as both his residence and command center, stretching just beyond the city’s medieval heart. A striking portrait by Bronzino captures Doria with an arm draped around a ship’s mast, his imposing figure reminiscent of Neptune, the sea god. The loggia terrace, which overlooks the harbour, is adorned with depictions of Doria’s seafaring ancestors, each a hero in their own right. Genoa in the 16th century was a formidable maritime power led by families such as the Dorias, later establishing itself as Europe’s banking hub, funding Spain’s endeavors in the New World.

Fast forward to the present day, and Genoa has evolved into a transient stop rather than a destination. The gardens of the palace offer a telling view: to the left, the main railway station serves as a gateway for travelers heading to the picturesque Italian Riviera, while to the right, the MSC World Europa cruise ship prepares for another journey around the Mediterranean. The elevated road, known as the sopraelevata, cuts across the waterfront, connecting the airport to the luxurious accommodations of Portofino and the Cinque Terre. This bustling port city, it seems, is not a place where tourists linger, but rather a point of passage on the way to more famous locales.

As a result, Genoa remains refreshingly free from the overwhelming crowds that plague cities like Florence, Rome, and Venice. Locals often wish the cruise passengers would spend more time exploring the city rather than just a fleeting visit. The hilly, winding center has not become overshadowed by short-term vacation rentals, and if travelers steer clear of shops near the cruise terminal, they may find prices geared toward residents (imagine paying just €1 for a generous slice of focaccia). Lively and diverse, Genoa exhibits a spirit more akin to Naples or Palermo than its wealthier northern counterparts, Milan and Turin, with its citizens displaying both pride and hospitality. While the city may not boast numerous iconic attractions beyond the large aquarium designed by Renzo Piano, every dining establishment, shop, or small museum seems to offer a glimpse into a world few outsiders have experienced.

However, what truly captivates are the stories that echo from Genoa’s rich yet frequently overlooked history. In addition to Doria, the name Durazzo resonates deeply within the city’s chronicle. The Durazzo family produced nine doges—elected heads of state—during the period when Genoa was an autonomous republic from 1099 to 1797. Visitors can experience this legacy firsthand by staying in a beautifully restored family mansion dating back to 1624, now operating as a luxurious hotel. This space allows guests to immerse themselves in the historical narrative of once one of the world’s wealthiest cities.

The Palazzo Durazzo Suites is ideally positioned between the old docks and the intricate maze of medieval streets known as the caruggi. Its grand entrance reveals a striking foyer through an unremarkable wooden door on the Via del Campo, designed to impress esteemed guests of the era. A red-carpeted stairway leads to reception on the third floor, where our suite, Il Doge, overlooks the sopraelevata and the bustling port area. Immediately, we are taken aback by the ceiling mural depicting Neptune lounging on rocks, symbolizing the former owner Stefano Durazzo, a naval magistrate and doge in the 1730s, overseeing both the dockyards and distant adversaries from above. The king-sized bed, crowned with a canopy reminiscent of a doge’s hat, feels diminutive against the lofty 7-meter-high ceiling, creating an atmosphere of reverence.

Every element, from the ornate gold façade to the exquisite 18th-century terrazzo flooring, showcases the meticulous restoration that took seven years under the guidance of architect Emanuela Brignone Cattaneo, a descendant of the Durazzo lineage. Each of the twelve unique suites feels like a personal masterpiece, with options ranging from traditional decor—like the Oriente adorned with gilded tritons by Parodi—to more contemporary designs, such as Le Conchighlie, featuring a shell-covered ceiling inspired by the Ligurian coastline. Our suite, modestly styled with classic colors and decor, maintains a sense of respect for its historical significance, yet the modern gray-painted bathroom provides a fresh touch with its walk-in shower and premium toiletries.

This hotel is part of the Palazzi dei Rolli, a UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses 42 palaces constructed by aristocratic merchant families to host key visitors, including diplomats and royalty, on behalf of the Genoese Republic during the 16th and 17th centuries. To experience the essence of Genoa’s opulent past, we stroll along Via Garibaldi, just a ten-minute walk from the hotel, where the most extravagant mansions stand. The Palazzo Rosso, currently an art gallery, displays magnificent Chinese vases; the Palazzo Carrega-Cataldi, home to the Chamber of Commerce, features an opulent rococo gallery; and the private museum Palazzo Lomellino boasts a delightful garden filled with whimsical sculptures and fountains. Unlike the crowded streets of Venice or Rome, here, we find a distinct lack of British and American tourists.

Nestled between the Apennine Mountains and the Ligurian Sea, Genoa is known for its winds, and during the autumn and winter, it can often be overcast (a fact I can attest to). However, these rugged landscapes contribute to the production of some of the region’s finest ingredients. During our explorations of the palaces, we stop by I Tre Merli, situated in a former customs building on the marina, to savor creamy trofie al pesto, the renowned pasta twisted with boiled potatoes and green beans. Here, the basil’s intensity derives from the sun-drenched, salty air sweeping through neighborhoods like Pra, known to yield the best basil. Other hearty dishes fit for the season include a pesto-topped minestrone and a delicious custard dessert called sciumette at Zupp, located on Piazza di San Matteo, and a traditional stockfish stew at the cozy family-run Le Rune, outside the historic city center.

Our penultimate evening brings unexpected excitement as a storm brews outside while we indulge in perfectly prepared sea-bass ravioli at Locanda Spinola, just a short walk from our hotel. Returning later, we discover a power outage, but are guided through the dimly lit spaces by a friendly doorman. We find refuge in the lavish lounge bar, lit by battery-operated lamps. The atmosphere is more reminiscent of a nostalgic gathering than a horror scenario as we sink into the plush red velvet sofas and sample wines from the owners’ villa, with the O Cona Coronata Val Polcevera white offering a refreshing touch reminiscent of sunny days.

The following morning greets us with delightful surprises, starting with the sun making an appearance. We embark on a tour of the botteghe storiche, a collection of around 50 historic shops that have remained family-run for generations (with tours available). Our engaging guide describes Genoa as a city defined by subtlety, a description that resonates deeply in these charming boutiques. We explore sweet shops, a pharmacy, a fabric maker, a tripery, and a stationery store—each with its chatty owners welcoming us. But the highlight is Pescetto, a clothing store specializing in silk and wool, featuring a vintage section reminiscent of a museum, housing everything from pre-war swimsuits to iconic Scottish kilts.

Our final stop is at the Museo di Sant’Agostino, an art and archaeology museum situated in a former monastery. Despite most exhibition spaces being closed for renovations until 2026, we take pleasure in a guided exploration of storage rooms filled with an array of artifacts chronicling nearly a millennium of Genoese history. Among these treasures, I spot two Doria headstones from distinctive eras, prompting reflection on how the archetype of a Genoese hero might appear today—humble and warm-hearted, perhaps, leading the way with modern technology in hand.

— Huw Oliver.

Explore More Underrated Cities in Italy

By Julia Buckley

Trieste, Friuli Venezia Giulia

While also experiencing an influx of visitors, Trieste remains relatively serene compared to bustling Venice. Historically, Trieste served as the lone port of the Austro-Hungarian empire, imbuing it with a unique ambiance characterized by Austrian-style coffee houses and stunning mansions. The picturesque Gulf of Trieste is a must-see while hiking cliff-top paths or relaxing at its waterfront square. Consider a stay at the grand Savoia Excelsior Palace for an unforgettable experience.

Livorno, Tuscany

Livorno boasts a vibrant history thanks to the Medici, who established a free port that attracted diverse merchants, allowing for religious tolerance during challenging times in the 1500s. Although World War II inflicted damage on the city, pockets of charm remain, including the Venetian district with its canals and majestic waterside fortifications built by the Medici. Savor Livorno’s famed seafood stew, cacciucco, in the bustling market area for a truly local experience.

Catania, Sicily

Often overshadowed by vibrant Palermo, Catania is a jewel of its own, showcasing the authentic Sicilian experience. The presence of a volcano adds to its allure, while a Roman theater nestled between 19th-century buildings is a testament to its rich history. Indulge in local specialties like pasta alla norma and explore the city’s captivating sights, including the stunning cathedral built from lava stone.