Highlights from the Geneva Watch Fair

The Watches & Wonders event held this month in Geneva attracted watch enthusiasts from around the globe, including collectors, specialists, and aficionados, who gathered to explore the latest innovations and trends in horology. Notably, this year’s showcase emphasized smaller case sizes and complex functionalities, including numerous perpetual calendars. Blue emerged as a dominant hue, accompanied by hints of lilac, while platinum distinguished itself among the precious metals on display. With a variety of stunning timepieces present, the fair truly celebrated the art of watchmaking.

Patek Philippe made headlines with an impressive collection, expanding its elegant square-design Cubitus family by introducing two new 40mm models in rose gold and white gold. The standout piece was undoubtedly the Ref 5308 Quadruple Complication, a self-winding marvel featuring a minute repeater, split-second chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. For those seeking something less intricate, the new dress watch option is the manually wound Calatrava Ref 6196P, crafted in platinum with a rose-gilt opaline dial and anthracite hour markers and hands, offering a refined vintage aesthetic.

Cartier watch in 18-carat yellow gold with diamonds.

Cartier showcased a range of glamorous pieces, including a dazzling version of the all-yellow gold baignoire bangle, now embellished with a subtle sprinkling of tiny diamonds. The brand also reimagined its Tank à Guichet watch from 1928 in a romantic style. Additionally, Cartier introduced its voluminous Tressage collection, featuring braided designs of gold, lacquer, and diamonds, along with a series of chic jewellery watches.

NINTCHDBPICT000989280601

Piaget introduced more jewellery watches, including sautoirs—timepieces on long chains—softened from their original designs dating back to 1969. Their new Sixties series showcased the asymmetrical trapeze shape in a modern reinterpretation. The Piaget Andy Warhol watch, paying homage to the artist’s connection to the brand, also garnered attention. This officially renamed collection features four pieces showcasing stone dials ranging from blue meteorite to tiger eye, creating a distinctive silhouette and style.

Beyond the stunning designs, several records were set at the fair. Bulgari unveiled the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, claiming the title for the thinnest tourbillon watch, measuring almost as thin as a sheet of paper. On the flip side, Tudor presented its new Pelagos, boasting water resistance of up to 1,000 metres. The most complex timepiece award went to Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, regarded as the world’s most intricate wristwatch, featuring 41 highly sophisticated functions crammed into a 45mm case.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air watch with titanium case and white textile strap.

Ulysse Nardin was lauded for creating the lightest watch, the Diver [Air], which blends high horology with cutting-edge materials. The brand collaborated with innovative start-ups to incorporate materials like carbon fiber, Nylo foil, and 90% recycled titanium, achieving a weight of just 46g or 52g with the custom strap. This watch, with a water resistance of 200 metres, can endure 5,000 g-force, making it the lightest mechanical dive watch yet, with commendable eco-friendly credentials. Meanwhile, Nomos Glashütte’s Club Sport neomatik emerged as a great value option, now featuring a world time complication and powered by a new in-house movement, available in classic designs with a Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic.

NINTCHDBPICT000989279840

Jaeger-LeCoultre revealed the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, a stunning iteration of their classic art deco-inspired watch. Despite its functional name, this pink gold piece with a grained gold dial and Milanese gold mesh bracelet exhibits captivating elegance, powered by a self-winding mechanical movement.

Land-Dweller 40

Rolex made a significant impact at the event by unveiling the Land-Dweller collection, featuring an integrated sports watch available in 36mm and 40mm sizes. This marks the brand’s first new model launch in 13 years, showcasing a honeycomb-patterned dial inspired by the Oysterquartz designs of the 1960s and 1970s, paired with a unique “flat Jubilee” bracelet. Additionally, it is equipped with an advanced movement featuring a Dynapulse silicon escapement for enhanced precision.

Alongside this, Rolex introduced a striking 1908 dress watch in yellow gold, accompanied by an elegant bracelet. Also featured were a variety of Oyster Perpetuals with vibrant pastel-colored dials, including a standout Pistachio variant, and updates to classic models with refreshing new dials, such as a Daytona with a turquoise lacquer finish and a GMT-Master II sporting a tiger iron dial. The event concluded successfully, showcasing the rich craftsmanship and creativity of the watchmaking industry.

Post Comment