In the realm of fine jewellery, a select few designers are celebrated for their exceptional craftsmanship and unique style, and Viren Bhagat is one of them. Hailing from Mumbai, Bhagat’s creations stand out for their superior design, exquisite materials, and meticulous execution. His pieces reflect a harmonious blend of Indian influences and European sophistication, showcasing perfectionist craftsmanship paired with some of the most remarkable gemstones. Producing only 50 bespoke pieces each year, his work is highly sought after by collectors and discerning clients. “Once someone acquires one of my pieces, they often return for more,” he shares with a grin.

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Bhagat’s new by-appointment-only salon, situated in an understated first-floor venue in Mayfair, London. “I searched for the perfect space for two years,” he reveals. “I explored numerous options but found Bond Street too commercial for my taste.” Bhagat emphasizes that his London presence is not solely for commercial transactions: “I aim to showcase my jewellery to a broader audience. We have clients worldwide, and this location provides them easier access compared to Mumbai.”

Upon entering his salon, visitors will notice it is not a conventional shop. Instead of a retail environment, it features neutral wood-paneled walls inspired by the art deco style of Jean-Michel Frank. Iconic Wassily chairs by Marcel Breuer are positioned by a window, complemented by an intricately carved Mughal screen from the late 18th century, reflecting Bhagat’s heritage. “The space shares an energetic yet tranquil vibe similar to my salon in Mumbai,” he notes. “Here, I prefer to engage in a conversation with clients first to understand their preferences before presenting my creations.”

Drawing inspiration from architecture, nature, and his Indian roots, Bhagat clarifies, “My jewellery isn’t strictly Indian.” When artisans join his seven workshops (employing a total of 30 people), they must forget traditional techniques. Bhagat himself is a fourth-generation jeweller, with his family’s legacy rooted in Mumbai since 1887. Although he credits his father with nurturing his artistic talent, he departed from the family’s traditional approach, opting to create curated collections instead of taking commissions. Today, both of his sons actively contribute to the company.

During my visit, Bhagat delicately unveils an array of jewels, eagerly watching my reaction. Each reveal carries a sense of occasion, and I find it challenging to remain composed. The first piece is a striking ring crafted over six months, featuring two portrait-cut diamonds standing vertically in a platinum setting, encapsulating a bold art deco aesthetic. Next, he showcases a ring adorned with richly colored Burmese rubies, designed to resemble a stylized lotus with diamonds radiating from its core. Completing the display are earrings formed from natural pearls sourced from the Gulf of Mexico, artfully arranged in swirling colors, each ending with a central diamond.

He then presents a pair of brushed yellow gold cuffs, embellished with 48 diamonds totaling 100 carats, featuring a paisley design meticulously cut into the gold. “This technique demands absolute precision,” he shares, demonstrating the intricate shadow cast by the pattern in the sunlight. “Jewellery encompasses not just metal and stones, but also light and shadow,” he explains.

When I inquire about his continued creativity in his later years, Bhagat attributes it to maintaining a youthful mindset. He starts his day with a morning run, followed by an hour of focused drawing in his office, often accompanied by loud music — spanning genres from classical to house — to quiet his thoughts and inspire creativity.

As Bhagat prepares for his bi-monthly visits to London, he notes that although the salon will be open in his absence, prospective clients should make prior inquiries via his website. Only a selected few will be granted appointments, with the final location disclosed upon scheduling. This distinctive approach sets Bhagat apart in a landscape where many jewellers operate conventionally, adding to the allure of his unique creations.

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